30 November 2013

Observations on surfers

It is Satruday morning and we are at the beach.  My brother and sister went for a walk on the beach and left me to guard the chairs and ukulele. I had a little nap. I meant to grade some papers but don't want to. It's Ok.

I spotted them (the siblings) and thought they may have decided to walk to San Diego.  They are way far down there.  I thought I would make some observations on surfing and surfers in the meantime.

  • They are a men. I have seen only 1 woman.
  • They are all ages and even some old, like 70+.
  • There are lots of them. I counted at least 30-40 on each side of the pier at several different times.
  • They are all white, thin, and have good posture, though some are more attractive than others. 
  • They sit out there on their boards for a long time just waiting. 
  • They are excellent at changing clothes in the parking lot by concealing with a large Beach towel wrapped around their waists.
  • They mostly travel in one's but occasionally meet up in two's.
  • Hair is not a consideration. 
  • All wetsuits are black. 
  • The Ocean was more calm this morning than now. 
  • A good wave can usually have two people at a time riding, one on each end as it breaks. Occasionally you will see 3 start on a wave but a maximum of 2 ever make it. 
  • Some guys like to stretch first before hitting the water. 
  • Many literally run to the water just like you would see in an old Beach movie. 
  • They don't surf at night, but do get there extremely early in the morning at the first signs of light but before the sun actually rises.




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